DIY KEY DESIGNS

My name is Kendall.  And I hoard keys.  My key ring is always a mess because I lose track of which keys I actually need.  I don't want to throw any of them away because surely it was important at one point or another.  

So I decided to make it a little easier to keep track of all of them.

I realize that decorative keys are readily available everywhere, but where's the fun in just buying one?  Plus, I love Mickey Mouse just as much as the next person, but do I really need a jumbo picture of him imprinted on my house key?  The answer...is no.

TOTAL COST : $5 - $10 for tons of keys

SUPPLIES NEEDED : Spray paint in a variety of colors (make sure the paint is specific for metal), masking tape, and some small stickers.

1.  SPRAY YOUR KEYS : Cover both sides of your keys with a thin layer of spray paint.  The paint will chip too quickly if it's too thick.  Let the keys dry really well before the next step.

2.  TAPE AND STICKER : Use masking tape and/or little stickers to create a design of your choice.  Pinking sheers would be great for this as well!

3.  SPRAY AGAIN : Use a different color paint and spray another layer on both sides of your taped keys.  Remove the tape and/or stickers before the paint is fully dry to avoid peeling.

HOORAY!  You're finished!  Be sure to let your keys dry super well before using them.

Your snazzy new keys will help you remember which keys go where.  They will likely chip over time (just like the store bought ones), but just tape and paint again!

Happy crafting!

DIY MOSQUITO REPELLENT LANTERNS

The great state of Texas is well know for its mosquito annoyance.  Ladies also seem to attract mosquito bites more than the gents.  Most people say it's because mosquitoes are drawn to fragrances and perfumes (neither of which I wear).  Turns out they are also drawn to detergents and clean clothes.  The modern-day woes of a dainty lady...

Citronella candles are far too expensive for my likings and I've never been a huge fan of tiki torches.  I had a small collection of old bottles that didn't serve a functional purpose, so I decided to make my own Texas-sized mosquito repellent lanterns!

BEFORE WE BEGIN : Please remember that there is a fine line between oil lanterns and Molotov cocktails.  They should only be made, lit, and handled in well ventilated outdoor areas.  Keep away from areas where they might be knocked over and especially out of reach of kiddos and animals.

TOTAL COST : About $15 - $20 for 3 large lanterns.

1. SUPPLIES NEEDED :

• 3 - 4 old bottles with metal screw-on caps (preferably something heat/flame resistant like copper).  Vintage bottles, empty liquor bottles, and wine bottles all work well.  Clean each bottle inside and out before starting.  Make sure they have metal or aluminum caps.  This is necessary for step 2.
• A bottle of citronella oil ($10 for a large bottle at the hardware store).  Make sure you only use oils that are manufactured for lanterns and tiki torches.  Never use gasoline or other explosive fuels.
• Tiki torch replacement wicks ($2.50 for a two-pack of wicks at the hardware store).
• A drill*.

2. DRILL YOUR CAPS :

• Use a large drill bit to drill a hole in your cap large enough to hold your wick in place.  You want the hole to be large enough to pull the wick through but allow for a little wiggle room for when you need to adjust the wick length.

3. POUR YOUR OIL : 

• I spill everything, so I used a funnel for this step.  Fill your bottles about half-way up.  You want to make sure there is enough oil to saturate your wick.  The oil will work its way up the wick, so you do not need to fill the entire bottle.  

4. SCREW ON YOUR CAP AND CHECK YOUR WICK : 

• Screw on your cap and make sure the outer area is clean of any oil you may have spilled.  The top of the wick only needs to stick out about 3/4" - 1" above your cap.  Any longer than that and your flame will be way too big.  We're trying to deter mosquitoes, not light the porch on fire.

*This asterisk is for ladies who are not yet drill owners.  Go purchase one immediately (or permanently borrow one from your dad).  It will change (and simplify) the way you work on projects, decorate your home, etc.  It is a must-have for any lady and they are super easy to use!  Do not fear the drill.  Embrace the drill.

That's it!  You now have some inexpensive, super cool looking lanterns that will help you enjoy the summer sans mosquitoes!

DIY CUSTOM STEPPING STONES

We have been getting a lot of rain lately and our yard turns into a soggy mess.  I love cute step stones, but they're so dang expensive!  Here's a super simple and inexpensive project for all you yard lovers on a budget.

TOTAL COST : About $25 for 20 stepping stones!

1.  SUPPLIES NEEDED : Spray paint in a color of your choice, painters or masking tape, and inexpensive concrete blocks (I purchased mine at Walmart for $1/each).

2.  TAPE OFF YOUR BLOCKS : I'm a minimalist and went with a simple square pattern.  Stripes or a chevron pattern would be super cute too!

3.  SPRAY PAINT YOUR SQUARES : Spray a thin coat of spray paint evenly across the entire surface.

4.  REMOVE YOUR TAPE : And you're done!  Let the paint dry for a few hours before stepping on them.

Send me a photo if you give this a try.  I'd love to see how yours turn out!

DIY FRAMED VINTAGE MAPS TUTORIAL

SUPPLIES NEEDED : 

1.  THRIFTED FRAMES : I purchased these for $0.10 each at our local Goodwill.
2.  MOD PODGE : About $6 - $8.  A crafters must.  I'm a fan of the matte finish.
3.  SPRAY PAINT : This is to paint your frames and is optional if you dig the color of your thrifted frames.
4.  PAINT BRUSH : You totally have one somewhere in your house.
5.  VINTAGE MAP : Purchased for $1 at an antique shop.  Look for ones that are torn, they are always cheaper.

PAINT YOUR FRAMES : 

1.  Remove the glass and clean your frames with a damp rag.  You want to make sure the frame is free from dust so the paint adheres well.

2.  Spray-paint both sides of your frame with the color of your choice.

PREP YOUR MAPS AND MOD PODGE :

3.  While your frames are drying you can start cutting out your maps.  Lay your frame-glass on your map and trace around the edges.

4.  Cut out your map pieces and set them aside.

PAINT YOUR MAPS :   

5.  I wanted each of my map cutouts to look a little different, so I mixed in a drop of food coloring with my Mod Podge.

6.  Use your paintbrush and Mod Podge each of your map pieces to each of your glass pieces.  A thin layer will do.  Be sure to clean each of your glass pieces before Mod Podging!

 

FRAME YOUR MAPS : 

7.  Once your maps are dry you can frame and hang!

Happy mapping!

DIY SCREEN PRINT TUTORIAL

I started screen printing in 2007 because I wanted to make my band's shirts.  I bought a little DYI kit from an art store and started trial-and-erroring.  There are several different methods, but I only use the photo emulsion method.  Lots of friends have requested screen printing tutorials over the years, so here it is!

I don't have a fancy screen printing press, so all my prints come out looking DYI...but in a good way.

HOW TO SCREEN PRINT WITH PHOTO EMULSION METHOD

The Photo Emulsion Method is a bit of a process, but the screens and prints always come out looking pretty dandy.  I'll show you all the steps and show you how to stretch your own frame!  It'll save you tons of cash in the long run.

Keep in mind that this method is permanent to your screen and can only be washed out with a specific cleaner.  I keep all of the screens I make so that I can re-print them later.     

SUPPLIES NEEDED:

The list looks daunting...but most of the supplies listed below can be used over and over again!

1.  A screen printing frame (you can also build your own custom size)

2.  Cord long enough to go around the entire frame (11/64 diameter)

3.  Screen printing fabric

4.  A putty knife or cord setter to lay the cord (make sure it's not too thick or else it will stretch the trenches and your cord won't stay put)  

5.  Screen printing emulsion and sensitizer

6.  Screen printing squeegee 

7.  A transparency with your image (I get mine printed at FedEx Office)

7.  Aluminum pie tin (from your local grocery store)

8.  250W Photoflood Light Bulb (These are fairly easy to find at your local camera store/photo developing store.  They burn out simi-quick...so always have a backup handy)

9.  Light socket with electrical cord (I found mine at a hardware store in their lamp department.  You can also find them anywhere that sells paper lanterns)

10.  Masking/Painters tape 

11.  Screen printing ink

STRETCHING THE FRAME:

I always stretch my own frames because the pre-stretched ones are super expensive (in my opinion).  This frame would have cost about $25 if it were pre-stretched, but it only cost me about $8 to do it myself.  Plus, you can use the frames over and over again.  I will re-use a frame until it literally falls apart.  Just re-stretch some new fabric and start a new design.  

Stretching your own screen can be a bit of a bitch (sorry mom).  You want to make sure it's super tight without any wrinkles.  I'm finally able to get it right the first time around.  Woot!

Start with a helper.  Have her/him hold the screen tight while you wedge the cord into the frames ditches.

Continue all the way around the frame...

If there are any loose areas in the screen (ripple, wrinkles, etc.)...remove the cord and start over.  You want to make sure it is completely smooth so it will lay flat on your shirts, posters, etc...

Trim any excess fabric to make sure your frame will lay flat.

SPREADING THE EMULSION: 

Don't forget to buy sensitizer when you're purchasing your emulsion!  It's a teeny tiny bottle that feels empty. It is not.  And it is 100% necessary before you begin.  You will mix the sensitizer with the emulsion before you coat your screen.

NOTE: You want to do this step in a dimly lit room.  Emulsion is light sensitive and you don't want to pre-expose your frame.  You've got some wiggle room while the emulsion is drying, but you want to be quick with this step.

Add a little emulsion to your screen...

You want to spread a THIN layer of emulsion on each side of your screen with your squeegee.  Just enough to coat both sides.  If it is too thick your image might not develop correctly.  Use your squeegee to scrape off any excess emulsion back into the jar (don't be wasteful).

Let your screen dry in a PITCH BLACK ROOM.  While it's drying you can prep your transparency image and your light setup.

MAKE YOUR OWN EXPOSURE LIGHT:


Totally ghetto.  Totally still gets the job done.  This is the same pie tin I bought in 2007.  I'm thrifty!

Pretty self explanatory...

I usually make two copies of my transparencies and tape them together to make sure no light shines through that portion of the transparency.  Keep in mind that anything that's BLACK is where your paint will go.

Here's a simple little print I was working on yesterday.  Nothin' fancy.

DEVELOP YOUR SCREEN:

Once your emulsion is dry it's time do develop!  Exposure time is based on the size of your frame.  I found this nifty difty chart here.

Frame Size  -  Bulb Height  -  Exposure Time
8" x 10". . . . . . 12 inches . . . . . 10 minutes
10"x14". . . . . . 12 inches . . . . . 10 minutes
12 "x 18" . . . . .15 inches . . . . . 16 minutes
16"x2O" . . . . . 17 inches . . . . . 20 minutes
18"x2O" . . . . . 17 inches . . . . . 20 minutes


** VERY IMPORTANT ** Make sure you have your transparency facing the correct way so that your image is not reversed on your shirts/posters!  Since my transparency is developing on the bottom of my screen...I have REVERSED it so that the text is not backwards when it's time to print.  Dig?

Set your timer and let your screen develop in a completely undisturbed room.  Even the slightest nudge of the screen can make your image weird.

WASH OUT YOUR SCREEN:

Once your screen is developed you can take it back into the light.

Use the hand-held kitchen sink squirty thing (or your shower) and start spraying water in a spray-paint-can fashion all over both sides of your screen.  Lukewarm water seems to work best.  Keep spraying both sides until your image has completely broken through.  This can take about 10 minutes or so.  Be patient.  

Hold it up to a bright light periodically to see when all parts of your image have been washed out completely.

TIME TO PRINT:

Let your frame dry completely before you start printing (duh).  

Use masking tape or painters tape to cover the edges of the bottom of your screen and any areas that you might have messed up on.  This is the bottom of my screen...thus why the text is backwards...

Hooray!  You're done!  Time to start printing!  

The process of actually printing your image on a shirt/poster does not come across very well via photos...so checkout the video below (I did not make this video...obviously).

This guy has a fancy printing press...but I print all of mine by hand.  You can make your own rig with some heavy duty clamps.  This is very helpful if you plan on using more than one color.

  

HAPPY PRINTING!

Thanks Notorious B.I.G. for the inspiring words.